What Are Motherboard Standoffs? What They Do & How to Install Them
If you’re building a PC for the first time, motherboard standoffs are easy to overlook. They’re tiny, they’re not glamorous, and nobody mentions them in a build’s spec sheet.
But skip them, or get them wrong, and you risk shorting out a motherboard that might have cost you hundreds of dollars.
This guide covers exactly what standoffs are, why they matter, how many you need for your specific motherboard, and how to install (and remove) them correctly.
Quick Answer:
A standoff is a small threaded metal spacer that screws into your PC case and raises the motherboard off the metal chassis, preventing the board’s underside circuitry from short-circuiting against it. You need one standoff for every mounting hole on your motherboard ( commonly 9 for full ATX, 6 for Micro-ATX, and 4 for Mini-ITX ), installed only in the positions that match your board’s specific hole pattern.
What Is a Motherboard Standoff?
A motherboard standoff, also called a motherboard mounting screw or spacer, is a small cylindrical or hexagonal metal piece that’s threaded on the outside at one end and threaded on the inside at the other.
The outside threads screw into the mounting holes of your PC case. The inside threads accept the screws that hold your motherboard in place on top.
In effect, standoffs create a small gap, typically 6–8mm, between the bottom of your motherboard and the metal tray of your case. That gap is the entire point. It keeps the board’s underside from ever touching bare metal.
Why Standoffs Matter: The Short-Circuit Risk
The underside of a motherboard is covered in exposed solder points and electrical traces. If that surface makes direct contact with your case’s metal chassis, which is itself electrically conductive, it creates unintended electrical pathways across your board.
At best, this can prevent your PC from powering on correctly. At worst, it can instantly damage or destroy the motherboard, and potentially other connected components like your CPU or RAM.
Beyond preventing shorts, standoffs serve two additional purposes:
- Secure, stable mounting: they hold the motherboard firmly in place so it doesn’t shift or flex during shipping, moving, or normal use.
- Airflow: the gap they create allows air to circulate underneath the board, which helps with overall case cooling and heat dissipation.
Related: How to Test a PC Motherboard: Signs of Failure, Diagnostic Tools
Standoff vs. Spacer: What’s the Difference?
These terms get used interchangeably, but there’s a technical distinction. A true standoff is threaded on both ends (one end screws into the case, the other accepts a motherboard screw), while a spacer typically isn’t threaded at all and simply sits between two surfaces to create separation.
In PC building specifically, “standoff” and “motherboard spacer” are almost always used to mean the same threaded component, so you can treat the terms as synonyms in practice. Just know that a technical spec sheet may distinguish them.
How Many Standoffs Do You Need?
The number depends entirely on your motherboard’s form factor and its specific hole pattern. Always match standoffs to your board’s actual mounting holes rather than filling every hole in the case.
| Motherboard Form Factor | Typical Standoff Count |
|---|---|
| Mini-ITX | 4 |
| Micro-ATX (mATX) | 6 |
| Standard ATX | 9 |
| E-ATX | 9–11 (varies by case and board) |
These numbers are typical, not universal. Always check your motherboard’s manual for its exact hole layout, since some boards have a few extra or fewer mounting points than the standard count for their form factor.
Important: most modern cases have far more standoff mounting positions than any single motherboard actually uses, since the case needs to accommodate multiple form factors. Only install standoffs in the holes that align with your specific board; leaving unused case holes empty is normal, not a mistake.
Standoff Sizes and Thread Standards
Nearly all consumer PC standoffs use one of two thread standards:
- #6-32 UNC – the dominant standard, found in roughly 95% of consumer cases. Coarse threads that are more forgiving to install.
- M3 – a metric standard with finer threads, used by some cases and boards, occasionally alongside #6-32 holes for compatibility.
If you ever need to buy replacements, check your case’s manual to confirm which standard it uses. The two are not interchangeable, and forcing the wrong thread pitch can strip the hole in your case.
Related: PC Upgrade Guide 2026: What to Upgrade First for Better Performance
Are Standoffs Included With Your Case or Motherboard?
Standoffs come with your PC case, not your motherboard. This surprises a lot of first-time builders, since it seems like they’d logically ship with the board they’re meant to support. But because case designs vary so much in shape, size, and standoff hole placement, cases are what actually determine which standoffs (and how many) you need.
Most cases include a small bag or box of extra screws and standoffs in the accessory kit, and many modern cases also come with a few standoffs pre-installed in the most common ATX positions. Check your case’s included hardware before assuming you need to buy anything separately.
Step-by-Step: How to Install Motherboard Standoffs
- Identify your motherboard’s form factor (ATX, Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX, or E-ATX); this is usually printed on the board itself or listed in its spec sheet.
- Lay the motherboard over the case tray (without securing it) to visually line up its mounting holes with the standoff holes in the case.
- Note which case holes align with your board’s holes; mark them mentally or with a bit of tape if it helps.
- Check for pre-installed standoffs already in the case, and remove any that don’t align with your board’s hole pattern.
- Screw in the remaining standoffs by hand first, starting from the center of the board’s mounting pattern and working outward, to keep them going in straight.
- Use a hex driver or nut driver to snug them the rest of the way; most cases don’t include this tool, so it’s worth having one on hand (a basic PC toolkit includes one).
- Don’t overtighten. Standoffs only need to be snug; overtightening can strip the case’s threads or crack the standoff itself.
- Place the motherboard onto the standoffs, confirm every mounting hole lines up with a standoff underneath, and secure it with motherboard screws; again starting from the center and working outward, tightening evenly rather than fully tightening one corner before moving to the next.
How to Remove Motherboard Standoffs
- Remove the motherboard first by unscrewing all motherboard screws.
- Use a hex driver (or a socket that fits the standoff’s hex shape) to unscrew the standoff counter-clockwise from the case.
- If a standoff is stuck or spinning without loosening, hold it steady with needle-nose pliers from the top while turning the driver, or use pliers directly on the standoff if there’s enough of it exposed to grip.
- Store removed standoffs somewhere you won’t lose them. Many people keep spares in an unused mounting hole or a small parts bin for future builds.
Common Mistakes That Damage Motherboards
- Skipping standoffs entirely because “it’s just one screw”; even a single point of contact with bare metal is enough to short a board.
- Installing standoffs in every available case hole instead of only the ones matching your motherboard, which can leave unused standoffs pressing against the underside of the board in places without a corresponding screw hole.
- Overtightening standoffs or motherboard screws, which can crack the standoff, strip the case threads, or put stress on the board itself.
- Forgetting to check for pre-installed standoffs that don’t match your board’s form factor, leaving a stray standoff touching the board where it shouldn’t.
- Using the wrong thread standard (forcing an M3 screw into a #6-32 hole or vice versa), which can strip the threads in your case.
- Not double-checking alignment before applying full torque, leading to a cross-threaded standoff that seems tight but isn’t seated correctly.
Myth vs. Fact
Myth: Motherboards come with their own standoffs. Fact: Standoffs are a case accessory, not a motherboard accessory. Nearly all standoffs are included with your PC case, either pre-installed or in a separate hardware bag.
Myth: You should install a standoff in every hole the case provides. Fact: Cases are designed to support multiple motherboard sizes, so they have more standoff positions than any single board actually uses. Install standoffs only where they align with your specific motherboard’s mounting holes.
Myth: It’s fine to skip standoffs if you’re careful not to let the board touch the case. Fact: Even without direct contact during assembly, a board without standoffs isn’t securely mounted and can shift or flex during normal handling, use, or transport. Thus creating a short circuit risk later, not just during installation.
Myth: Plastic standoffs work as well as metal ones. Fact: Metal standoffs (typically brass) are the standard for a reason. They help ground the motherboard properly in addition to providing physical separation. Plastic standoffs lack that grounding function and are generally not recommended for a standard build.
What Standoffs Are Made Of
Most standoffs are made from brass, a copper-zinc alloy. Brass is used because it strikes a useful balance. It’s electrically conductive enough to help ground the motherboard properly, but far less conductive than pure copper or steel, which makes it safer for isolating circuits.
Brass also resists corrosion well over the years, which matters since standoffs are rarely removed or inspected once a build is complete.
Where to Buy Replacement Standoffs
If you need extras or replacements beyond what came with your case, they’re inexpensive and widely available. A basic motherboard standoff screw kit ( available on Amazon) typically costs just a few dollars and includes enough hardware for most builds.
You’ll also want a hex driver (available on Amazon) on hand if your case doesn’t include one, since neither the case nor the motherboard typically ships with the right tool.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are motherboard standoffs necessary?
Yes. Standoffs raise the motherboard above the case’s metal chassis, preventing the board’s exposed circuitry from short-circuiting against it. Skipping them risks serious, sometimes instant, damage to the board and any connected components.
What do motherboard standoffs do?
They act as raised mounting points that hold the motherboard securely in place while keeping its underside from touching the conductive metal case, and they also improve airflow underneath the board.
How many standoffs do I need for my motherboard?
It depends on your form factor: typically 4 for Mini-ITX, 6 for Micro-ATX, and 9 for standard ATX, though exact counts can vary slightly by board. Check your motherboard’s manual for its specific hole pattern.
What size are motherboard standoffs?
Most consumer cases use the #6-32 UNC thread standard, though some use the metric M3 standard instead. Check your case’s manual if you need to buy replacements, since the two aren’t interchangeable.
What happens if you install a motherboard without standoffs?
In a standard metal case, you risk an electrical short that can damage the motherboard, CPU, RAM, or other connected components. In the worst case, potentially create a fire hazard. In a non-conductive case (like plastic), the risk of a short is largely eliminated, but the board still won’t be properly secured or ventilated.
Do motherboards come with standoffs included?
No. Standoffs are included with your PC case, not your motherboard, since case designs and hole placements vary far more than motherboard form factors do.
What’s the difference between a standoff and a spacer?
Technically, a standoff is threaded on both ends, while a spacer isn’t threaded at all. In everyday PC-building conversation, though, the terms are used interchangeably to mean the same threaded mounting hardware.
Can I use plastic standoffs instead of metal ones?
It’s not generally recommended. Metal (brass) standoffs help properly ground the motherboard in addition to providing physical separation from the case, which plastic standoffs don’t do.
How do I install motherboard standoffs correctly?
Line up your motherboard’s mounting holes with the case’s standoff positions first, remove any pre-installed standoffs that don’t align with your board, then screw in the correct standoffs by hand before snugging them with a hex driver, avoiding overtightening.
Can I reuse old standoffs in a new build?
Yes, as long as they’re in good physical condition, free of stripped threads or visible damage, and compatible with your new case and motherboard’s thread standard.
Why does my case have more standoff holes than I need?
Cases are designed to support multiple motherboard form factors (ATX, Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX), so they include more mounting positions than any single board will use. Only install standoffs in the holes matching your specific motherboard.
Is it bad to overtighten motherboard standoffs?
Yes. Overtightening can strip the threads in your case, crack the standoff itself, or put unnecessary mechanical stress on the motherboard. Snug is sufficient. You don’t need to force them.
How do I remove a stuck motherboard standoff?
Use a hex driver or nut driver to turn it counter-clockwise. If it spins without loosening, hold it steady with needle-nose pliers while turning, or grip it directly with pliers if enough of the standoff is exposed.
What tool do I need to install motherboard standoffs?
A hex driver (sometimes called a nut driver) that matches your standoff’s size is the standard tool. Neither your case nor your motherboard typically includes one, so it’s worth adding to your PC-building toolkit.
Can too few standoffs cause problems even if the board doesn’t touch the case?
Yes, indirectly. A motherboard secured with fewer standoffs than it has mounting holes is more prone to flexing or shifting under vibration or movement, which can eventually lead to a short or physical stress on the board over time, even if there’s no contact during initial assembly.
Do all PC cases include standoffs?
The vast majority do, either pre-installed in common ATX positions or included as loose hardware in an accessory bag or box. If yours is missing them or you need extras for an unusual board layout, replacement kits are inexpensive and widely available.
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